Katherine Gorge doesn’t announce itself the way Kakadu does. You drive through the town of Katherine — which is, let’s be honest, a rough town — and follow the road 30km north to the park entrance. And then the gorge opens up in front of you and you understand immediately why people make the detour.
Thirteen gorges. Ancient sandstone walls rising 100 metres from still, dark water. Rock wallabies picking their way along the cliff face. It’s one of those places that makes you feel like you got away with something.
The Town of Katherine
We won’t pretend otherwise: Katherine itself is confronting. Visible poverty, social issues, a main street that feels worn down. It has a supermarket, a few fuel stations, and some decent roadhouses. Stock up here for the next leg south.
The gorge is 30km north-east of town and feels like a completely different world.
The Boat Tour: Start Here
The two-gorge boat tour is the best introduction and accessible for all ages and fitness levels. You ride a flat-bottomed boat through the first gorge, walk a short rocky path around the waterfall between gorges one and two, then board another boat for the second gorge.
The second gorge is the better of the two — narrower, quieter, the walls pressing in more dramatically. The guide we had was excellent, pointing out freshwater crocs on the banks (smaller and genuinely harmless compared to salties) and explaining the Jawoyn people’s connection to the country.
Allow three hours including the walk. Wear good shoes — the rock portage between gorges is uneven.
Book ahead: The tours fill up in peak season. nitmiluk.com.au or call the visitor centre.
Canoeing: The Better Option if You Have the Legs
If your kids are old enough and you have a full day, hire canoes and paddle in yourself. You can go much further into the gorge system, stop and swim, have lunch on a rock, and genuinely feel like you’ve found something. The gorges get quieter and more dramatic the further you go.
Canoes are hired from the visitor centre and you can self-guide with a map. Crocodile guidelines apply — swim only in designated areas (freshwater crocs are fine; salties are not present in the upper gorges but swimming rules still apply for your safety).
Our kids are 12 and 15. The 15-year-old was fine. The 12-year-old managed half a day before the paddling got old. Plan accordingly.
Swimming
There are designated swimming areas near the main beach and within the gorge on the boat tour. The water is fresh, clear, and cold in the early morning. Swimming in the gorge with those walls rising around you is something you’ll remember.
Check conditions and signs at the visitor centre — occasionally sections are closed due to croc sightings.
Rock Wallabies
We saw our first rock wallabies here and it completely delighted the kids. They pick their way along the cliff faces above the gorge with total indifference to the tourists below. Bring binoculars if you have them.
The Lookout Walk
The short lookout walk (about 2.5km return) gives you views down into gorge one from above. It’s steep in parts and exposed — not ideal in the middle of the day in the NT — but the views are worth it. Do it in the early morning.
There are longer multi-day walks for serious hikers, but with young kids we didn’t attempt those.
Camping at Nitmiluk
The Nitmiluk campground is well set up — powered sites, good amenities, a pool. It sits right at the park entrance, a short walk from the visitor centre and the gorge access. We stayed two nights and it felt about right — enough time to do the boat tour, a swim, and the lookout walk without rushing.
Practical Info
Location: 30km north-east of Katherine, NT
Entry fee: Interstate and international visitors need an NT Parks Pass — from $10/day per adult or $25/day per family. Kids under 18 and NT residents are free.
Boat tours: Book through nitmiluk.com.au — essential in peak season
Canoe hire: Available from visitor centre. Half or full day.
Best time: May to August. October–April is wet season; gorge may flood and some access is closed.
Swimming: Designated areas only — follow signage.
Fuel: Fill up in Katherine before heading to the gorge or south toward Mataranka.
We came from Bitter Springs, Mataranka — the most underrated swim of the trip. Next: Kakadu National Park.