There is no camping at the cliff edge — just the cliffs themselves, dropping eighty metres straight into the Southern Ocean, the Nullarbor Plain running flat and treeless behind you to the horizon. It is one of the most geographically confronting views in Australia: the absolute edge of a continent, uninterrupted from here to Antarctica.
The practical camping situation is that you stay either at the Nullarbor Roadhouse (on the SA side of the border) or at Eucla on the WA side, and drive to the lookout points along the Eyre Highway. The roadhouse camp is basic — powered and unpowered sites, functional toilets, a bar and basic meals. Eucla is slightly better appointed and has a small community. Neither is a destination stay in itself; this is a staging post for a specific experience.
The specific experience, between June and October, is Southern Right Whales. The Head of Bight, on the SA side, is one of the most significant Southern Right Whale breeding aggregations in the world. Mothers bring calves into the sheltered bay below the cliffs to nurse them before the journey south. From the lookout platforms — some of the best whale-watching infrastructure in Australia — you can watch whales swimming, rolling, and breaching in extraordinary proximity from land. No boat, no tour, no ticket required (beyond the Yalata/Head of Bight fee at the access gate): just you, the cliff, and a whale ten metres below.
Outside whale season, the appeal is purely the scale of the place — the endless flat plain, the sudden enormous drop, the ocean going south forever. The Nullarbor crossing is one of those drives that changes how you think about this country’s size, and the Bunda Cliffs are its punctuation mark.
Ceduna, 250km east, has full services for supplies before or after the crossing.